I’m veering off the path of the master bathroom remodel to bring you our DIY shiplap fireplace surround makeover. I’m so pleased with how much it lightened the room and added character. I know you’re here for the after pictures but just wait till you see what we started with.
There’s nothing quite like having a fireplace in the master bedroom. But the looks of the previous fireplace surround left me feeling far from warm and cozy. The previous owners did a great job adding a surround to the gas fireplace but it still felt like a brown wooden box sitting in the room.
The fireplace surround needed an overhaul and the makeover needed to be done on a budget.
Ready to see how it turned out?
So, let me show you how it all went down.
I knew I wanted the fireplace to have clean, simple lines…no frills…with a craftsman/farmhouse feel that fit our 1915 bungalow. I found just the right inspiration picture from Pinterest.
via Tiek Built Homes
Next, we built the framework of the fireplace surround with 2 X 3’s and added cement board around the gas fireplace insert.
Click this link to see how you can use paint to give something (even countertops) the look of soapstone.
Here are links to the crown molding we used:
1.75-in x 8-ft Pine PFJ Crown Moulding
2.75-in x 8-ft MDF Crown Moulding
EverTrue 3.625-in x 8-ft MDF Crown Molding
Total cost of our new shiplap fireplace $264
![[Room Reveal] Guest Bedroom Makeover on a Small Budget](https://www.simplicityinthesouth.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/black-shiplap-cozy-minimalist-guest-bedroom-reveal--200x200.jpg "[Room Reveal] Guest Bedroom Makeover on a Small Budget")
Paul h says
Pardon my woodworking novice. Are you securing the wood with finishing nails and glue? Then filling the holes with wood filler?
Tricia @ Simplicity in the South says
Hi Paul,
We’re happy to answer your questions. For attaching the boards, trim, and molding, we used a nail gun and didn’t use glue. The nail gun countersinks the nails but if you used finishing nails and a hammer, you can countersink the holes with a nail set.
After that, we used wood filler for the nail holes and caulk to fill the gaps. If you’re new to using caulk, it can be messy so wipe off the excess with a damp cloth before it has the chance to dry. Let us know if you have any other questions and enjoy your project.
Brian says
What are the dimensions of the legs, mantle, and cement board? I like your proportions and want to mimic this.
Tricia @ Simplicity in the South says
Hi Brian! I’m happy to help by sharing the dimensions. I’ve added a picture to the post that gives the measurements. I’ll also email it to you in case you don’t see this reply. Good luck with your fireplace project!
Wendy says
Beautiful. So simple. We followed many of your steps. Curious what sheen of paint did you use for the fireplace?
Mary says
What color did you paint the shiplap
Tricia @ Simplicity in the South says
Hi Mary,
I painted the fireplace shiplap Alabaster by Sherwin Williams. I hope that helps and thanks for stopping by!
Terry says
Stunning transformation! You guys did a really good job on this tutorial as well. Easy to follow, that I just might try tackling this myself.
amy says
Looks so pretty! I was wondering what paint color is on the walls? Thanks
Tricia says
Thank you! The wall color is Benjamin Moore Revere Pewter HC-172.
Randi says
I’m curious. I’m comparing your use of T&G on the ceiling upstairs with your use of a 4×8 sheet of ply cut in 6″ strips for the fireplace. I’m finishing the old carport into a new living room, and want to use T&G for the ceiling. I’m wondering…if I cut 3/4″ plywood in 6″ strips and nail it to the joists 24″ on center, would it warp and sag without being T&G?? Sure would be cheaper than buying the T&G! Maybe enhanced with construction adhesive?? Has anyone else tried this?
Tricia says
I think the 3/4” plywood is a great option for the ceiling as long as you use pre-primed cabinet grade plywood. Cabinet grade birch has 13 layers pressed and glued whereas CDX sheeting has between 5 and 9 layers pressed and glued making it quicker to warp. It’s only primed on one side in case you want to stain it instead of painting. Another good (but more costly) option is 1X6” pre-primed boards. We chose the T&G to use in the dormer bedroom because we were going over the popcorn ceiling and didn’t want gaps between the boards. Due to heat rising, either product will shrink and leave wider spaces due to the wood drying out. So, that’s something to consider along with the price per square foot difference. The T&G we used from Lowes was a little over a $1 per square foot. The drawback is that they can be out of stock at times and you get the occasional split board. As far as the adhesive, it certainly wouldn’t hurt to give it that extra staying power. I hope that helps you make your decision and I’d love to know how it turns out!
Randi says
All very good points to consider, thank you for the quick response. I’ll let you know how it works out if we go that route. BTW, your blog is my absolute favorite for ideas, be they large construction projects or found objects. You truly have a gift and I love your vision!
Pat @ Life At Lydias House says
Wow! What a great transformation! It turned out beautiful!
Tricia says
Thank you, Lydia!
Amy says
You have achieved a fantastic transformation with lots of work and very little cost. I appreciate the detailed drawings and measurements. They prove you are leagues above the typical slapdash do-it-yourself blogger. I’m looking forward to the next stage of your renovation.
Tricia says
Thank you, Amy! That’s one of the best compliments we could get. I have to credit my husband on his drawing skills, though. So glad you’re following along!